Venerdì in Firenza

Air France did a fine job of getting us from Paris to Florence.

Well, it's French you know, and a nice little snack of bread, cheese, salami and wine is not out of place, even at 35,000 feet.

We arrived only to find that there is a taxi strike BUT some rogue drivers are still working and so we queued up and sure enough, a steady stream of taxi's was picking up fares and heading into the city.   We arrived at the apartment's "sister" hotel and were walked the one block to the apartment.

It's on the first floor, has two bedrooms, one bath, salon, kitchen/dining room and, an extra treat, a little atrium with a washing machine.   BUT, let me kvetch for just one minute.  I have been a VRBO client for more than 10 years.  Mr. C and I have stayed in apartments all over the world, foreign and domestic.  We have always found some basics for our use; some kitchen staples, bathroom amenities, etc.  This place was ABSOLUTELY EMPTY except for toilet paper and automatic dishwasher soap.  Not a grain of salt, a sliver of bath soap, a drop of water, a paper napkin in the place.  Not a great start.  So off to the market we went to "furnish" this kitchen with things like olive oil, vinegar, coffee, etc.  plus to buy goodies for dinner.   Here's what it looked like:  roast chicken, salad, cheese, and a yummy whole wheat bread.  Oh, and a nice Italian white wine.

 We also needed another blanket ~ there was only one ~ but we'll get that tomorrow.

This morning we went off to the local street market held in an area just behind our apartment.  Fresh produce, cheese, baked things, flowers, plus clothing and leather goods.  The produce is absolutely beautiful, bountiful, inexpensive. 

There is also an indoor marked connected to it.  Here you will find meat and fish plus things like pasta, grains, packaged goods.

sacks of various grains

Beautiful porcini mushrooms selling for €160.00/kilo

Dried tomatoes in oil-so beautiful and fragrant 

Then we headed outside to get some other goodies.

beautiful, sweet, juicy clementines

striated eggplant about the size of a pear

I've never seen horse chestnuts and wouldn't know what to do with them . . .

 . . . and even if I did know what to do, I'm not sure I would!

After the big market we went to the post office to send off cards, back to Caron for more basic Florentine staples; water, wine, dry salami, bread, 2 little Prosecos for evening toasts, more fruit and veggies, and to the bank to get the cash to pay for it all.

 I am happy to report that Dorothy is taking a little Italian vacation, too, to visit her hundreds of cousins both here and in Paris.  She,too, is having a wonderful time!

in Florence

Just to let you know we made it safely to Florence.  I will post some photos and some chit-chat tomorrow.    And I DO have much to say about leaving and arriving and staying.  Meanwhile, it's 9 PM and I'm off to bed.  Thanks for reading along.

our last day in Paris

I hate playing catch-up when I'm traveling because it's almost impossible to remember everything I did on any one day.  But I have a batch of photos and perhaps I can put the event together with the picture and you can get some idea of what has transpired in the last couple of days.

Monday morning we set off to meet up with my friend Sheree who is staying over in the 5th.  We planned to either have a picnic in the Luxembourg gardens or, bad weather being the case, find a smart restaurant.  On our way we passed many, many cafés ready for business no matter what the weather.  It was already sprinkling but the tables and chairs were all set for customers.

Of course, nobody was there, but they were ready.

We walked by La Procope, the oldest restaurant in Paris.  It was Benjamin Franklin's favorite.  I was there many years ago, back in 1979 when I was living here for a few months.  First (and only) time I had pork stuffed with prunes.  A concept dish!

Across the Blvd. St. Germaine, through the school of medicine buildings and out on to Saint Michel, past the Sorbonne, up the hill toward the Panthéon to her little apartment.  We then showed her the wonderful outdoor market which was, hélas closed on Monday but at least she now knows where it is.  Back up the hill, past the apartment Mr. C and I have stayed in several times, and to the end of the street to a nice little restaurant I have walked by numerous times. 

 We sat outside but under cover of the awning and had a lovely lunch.  Alex and I each  feasted on a beautiful Salade Niçoise and Sheree had also a big vegetarian salad.  Then we walked back to her digs, I got a fabulous foot massage (and BOY did I need it).  Then we took her on a "how to ride the Metro" jaunt back to our little hotel.

She headed off toward the 7th to check out the Tour Eiffel and the d'Orsay, Alex went to shop for some cheese and crackers, I took a short nap.  When she got back it was raining so we stayed in the nabe for dinner just down the street.  Tomorrow, we decided, if it's not pouring rain, we're going up to Montmartre for lunch.

I was feeling a bit peckish in the morning, plus is was raining steadily, so we stayed in until around 2 o'clock and then decided to walk to Chartier.  We crossed the river on the Pont des Arts, the place where all the love locks are.  Unfortunately most of the locks are now gone; the weight was collapsing the bridge.  But the powers that be have salvaged part of the bridge and the locks are on terra firma at each end of the bridge.

From the Pont des Arts looking toward the Ile Saint- Louis

 After a brisk walk we arrived at Chartier, a well known restaurant that has tons of atmosphere and history but pretty lousy food.  But 'twas always thus.  I went there with my daughters 38 years ago and it's the same as it was.  It's clear you don't go there for the food but for the ambiance.  And there's lots of that.

Back to our hotel and an early bedtime for me.  I don't know exactly what the problem was today but a good night's sleep never hurts.

This morning I was up early and ready to go up to Montparnasse and the cemetery followed by lunch somewhere.  Alex I I walked over to meet Sheree, passing by these tempting goodies in the window of Carton's.

If we had a microwave we'd NEVER have to go out.  We met her down at the market and this time showed her how to find correspondence on the Metro.  Over to Blvd. Raspail and the big Cemeterie de Montparnasse.  All sorts of people have come to rest here; Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre (in the same  sarcophagus Mon Dieu!,
 Marguerite Duras, Guy de Maupassant,  Porfirio Diaz, president of Mexico, and plenty more, known and unknown.

Simone and Jean-Paul, a deux.  Hard to read, I know, but they're there!

Crypt of Porfirio Diaz (died  in Paris in 1915)

Marguerite Duras.  Pot in back is filled with pens left by admirers.

 

 

 

 I don't know who Ricardo was but he was much beloved by the friends who erected this beautiful, playful memorial to a man they describe on the name stone as "beautiful and beloved friend".

This beautiful etched door and relief floral decorations leads into a tiny crypt.  Burials are above ground and the slabs over the graves can be  plain or very ornate.  There are lots of little crypts such as this one crowded into the cemetery.

After a couple of hours of wandering through this quiet and peaceful place we walked over to La Coupole, another oldie but goodie resto.  The last time I was there was in 2000; at that time it had the best creamed spinach I had ever tasted.  And it was a big, barny place, not exactly casual but not very chi chi.  Then it was bought by a Japanese company and has gone waaay up in the world.  White table cloths and napkins, lots of plates and crystal on the table, a much more gourmet menu without the good stuff they used to serve like creamed spinach, for example, and poulet frites, a fabulous Grand Marnier souffle for dessert, etc.  But there we were so there we stayed.  I would say, faut de mieux not very good food for quite a few euros.  One beautiful thing there, however, is the floor.  Gorgeous mosaic tiles.

We walked home through the Luxembourg Gardens, in amazing bloom this late in the season.  The gardens are a marvelous quiet, lush spot in the midst of a busy, noisy, bustling city.  These are the plantings in from of the Palais du Luxembourg, across from the sailing pond where the kiddies bring their toy boats.

Allée des arbes

We left the garden, took a look at the Panthéon,

said good-bye to Sheree and headed home.  We leave for Florence tomorrow and I have yet to pack up.  We have had a lovely stay here but I will be happy to be in my own kitchen cooking my own meals with an occasional "out" to break the monotony.  Next post will be from our apartment on Via Dell'Agnolo #34!

tray chic

We're back "home" on this  clear and sunny Sunday after being out for several hours. Time to rest those tired feet.  We wandered far afield and saw some wonderful things.  Most little goodie shops closed; think of the € we saved!

First window shopping was at Pierre Frey, the ne plus ultra of home decorating goodies. These two gorgeous trays are in  the windows of the shop just down the street from our hotel.

For each of these you can also find matching fabric by the meter and paper cocktail and dinner napkins.  It's all so bloody tasteful!

We walked over to the 5th via the Ecole de Médicine ~ a little shortcut Mr. C discovered so he could get to Carton's in the early morning for fresh bread ~ then up the hill to check out the place where a friend will be staying for a few days, then on up the hill to the rue Mouffetard and the wonderful Sunday market.  I love that area; filled will little restaurants and shops surrounding a  lovely little area with a fountain surrounded by potted plants.

 We perused the market; here's a selection of cheeses for your enjoyment.

Back to the 6th and rue de Buci so Alex could get an early afternoon croissant - still THE BEST ever.

Mr. C and I discovered this bakery when we were here in 2000.  We stayed at a hotel just around the corner and we were served Carton's croissants at breakfast.  We decided then and there that if possible we would eat none other during stays here.  When we were over in the Marais it was really ridiculous to get on the Metro, travel acreoss the city just for breakfast bread so we "settled" for a closer source.  BIG mistake!

On our way home we passed this beautiful edifice of the restaurant Fish Le Boissonerie.  At one time it was a "poissonnerie" or fish market.  When the current owners cleaned up the mosaics and though about a name for their new restaurant, they decided to simply replace the "p" with a "b" and it is known as a place where you can "drink like a fish".

The mosaic is beautiful and rich in color.  This photo does not do it justice.  Next time you are on rue de Seine, stop by and give it a close look.

If I had my "good" camera I could zoom in on the whole place but, alas, I do not.

We turned onto the rue Jacob and passed a shoe store selling a perfect pair for strolling the cobbled streets of Paris.

And around the corner  my eye caught the trendy name of this men's shop.

Across the street from the hotel here is a tiny shop that specializes in hand-made clothing.  There is a gorgeous dress in the window but too much glare so no photo.  But I'll check it out tonight and see if I can get a decent pix.  Then it was on just a few steps further to one of the most famous bakeries in Paris, Laduree.

It has a salon du thé and a little cafe for luncheon, but mostly it has  fabulous sweets, including these macaroons.

Paris is crazy for macaroons.  All different sizes and colors.  These are sort of like macaroon Oreo cookies.  There are tiny shops all over the city that sell nothing but.  Go figure.

 Didn't make it to the bird market despite our best intentions.  Too many glorious distractions along the way.  But we WILL be back in Paris after our Florence adventure so it's not out of the question that we'll get there.

The weather forecasts have been all wrong so far.  It is clear, sunny and warm today, contrary to what was predicted.  It's now4 o'clock and the sky is still clear and blue.  Rain expected tomorrow afternoon but I've decided not to believe any of it until I feel the drops.

We've had a lovely Sunday.  Hope you  do likewise no matter where you are!

recharged and ready

Last night I strolled over to the rue de Buci for dinner.  I ended up with a big pot of mussels, some frites, a glass of white, and some crusty bread to sop up the mussel broth.

 After dinner I stopped into a little greenhouse and bought this little cyclamen to welcome Alex to our tiny room.  I snagged a saucer out of the breakfast room so I wouldn't flood the floor with water.  Looks quite cheery!

Next door to this hotel is a shop that sells the most wonderful china,  French faience, glassware, table decorations, and other objects d'art, any or all  of which I would be more than delighted to bring home.  It's all so . . .French.

This neighborhood is full of little shops like this one selling antiques, rare books, fabrics, and other beautiful bibelots.   A window shopper's paradise.

I slept pretty well and got down to the breakfast room around 9:30.  It dawned overcast and cloudy and I had doubts about walking around today, but it soon cleared and the sun came out.  I lingered and dawdled, awaiting Alex's arrival.  She walked in at around 10:30 after her relatively short flight from Boston (6 hours as compared to my 10 ).  She downed a cup of coffee (or two), then it was up to the room to unpack and we headed out to reintroduce her to the city.  We first crossed over to the Right Bank, stopping for a view up river.  There, in the far distance, you can see the beautiful, iconic Tour Eiffel.  I'll get several opportunities during this trip for a closer picture, but right now I want you to be assured that I'm really here!

We walked to the Louvre, took a look at the glass pyramid, stopped to help a group of visitors take photos ~ Alex used several camera to get a whole lot of group shots of the members of a family on vacation together; they were delighted! ~ and strolled on to and down the rue Rivoli.  Then it was back across the river onto the Ile St. Louis and  Notre Dame and the flower market.  I saw this beautiful bank of cyclamen in every color, including stripes.

Then over to the Left Bank to Blvd. St. Germaine.  We were now in the 5th, strolled through the old neighborhood that is Mr. C's favorite.  The street market was just closing up but Alex recognized it all immediately.  It was in that nabe where Alex, Cait and I first stayed on our maiden trip to Paris back in 1978 on our way to Kenya.  And it was there that Alex and I stayed 10 years ago before launching on our barge trip.

We walked as far as Odéon, checked the movie theater to see if "The Martian" has yet hit Paris (it hasn't but might by the time we get back  after Florence), went through rue de Buci again so she could check out Carton's and its beautiful pastries.  And now we're back here, tired and foot-weary and ready for a bit of down time.  She is asleep as I write this.  As she said, "I don't know  the last time I slept."  We'll go out on a dinner search in a couple of hours.  She wants fish, I want veal.  I'm sure we can find a spot that sells both.

powerless in Paris

It appears that one of the three devices I need to use to get power to charge the battery of my Air is not working. I have the adapter, the converter and another adapter. Something is not talking to something else. So I am gradually losing battery charge. Until I get it all figured out I'm not going to be able to post. But for now, all is well. I've had a good night's rest, a shower in the tiniest stall without benefit of any door or curtain and surrounded by mirrors (!!!), a lovely breakfast, so I'm ready to see what's out there.

BTW, the biopsy came back and the news is not good. Surgery when I get home. Bah!

bon jour from Paris

Bon jour from Paris on this bright, chilly October first.  After flying all night I am now tucked up in my hotel for two extra nights before Alex joins me.   I got seated in Business Class on the Sact'o - Seattle flight but wasn't so lucky on the long, 9-hour ordeal.  But i did score an aisle seat close to the front so it was easy-on-easy-off .  I probably snoozed for a total of an hour; mostly I watched movies and listened to my book (and to a couple of very unhappy babies) and fretted about what I would do if this hotel was full.  I hesitated to make a reservation yesterday because I wasn't absolutely positive I'd make either of the flights.  But by the time we landed at 8 AM this morning I had decided to just wing it and show up and see what happened.  Sure enough, they had ONE room left and I snagged it.  So right now I'm sitting in this lovely breakfast room getting this written until 2 PM when I can go into the room, get my down jacket and hit the streets.  First thing I'm going to do is walk over to Carton's, a bakery that has the best croissants in Paris.  Dear Delta gave us something they referred to as a croissant this morning; no croissant it its right mind would lay claim to it.  Then over to the little market to get some fruit juice to have in my room, check out the restaurant scene for an early dinner.  Then it's going to be an early night and just hope I sleep all the way through.

Some random thoughts from my arrival.  The rudest travelers are Asians, specifically the Chinese.  They are terrible at lining up and waiting their turn; a whole lot of pushing and shoving and scolding and cutting into line as the agents tried in vain to get them to cooperate at  passport control.  I'm talking about  a LOT of people, not just one or two.  The scariest people in line were nine Africans; one was a rather diminutive man in a pin=striped suit and his eight BIG bodyguards, all of them scanning the other passengers back and forth, back and forth.  And when we all finally made it out of the airport this guy was completely enveloped by his shadowers.  Creepy.

I took a taxi into the city, not a shuttle or the train, although the latter would have been very smart because there were gigantic traffic jams all the way in from the airport almost to the hotel.  My driver, Amir, was at a loss until we went by the Palais Royale which is all set up for the beginning of Paris Fashion Week tomorrow (known here as la semaine de chic}.    It ended up taking  2 hours to get here rather than the usual 40 minutes.  As a consequence it cost me €90 instead of the usual €50.  I am thinking of that, plus these two extra nights as coming out of the bundle I saved by not having to buy plane tickets!