2,210 miles later . . .

. . but much too exhausted to write anything about the trip. Seven days on the road is about five too many. But here we are, back home, and looking forward to good a night's sleep in (one of) my own bed(s).

Mañana.

in country

San Carlos to the border on Saturday ~ safe and fast. Border wait, 1 hour. In Gila Bend, AZ Saturday night. Hot. To Palm Springs on Sunday. Hot. To Bakersfield today. Probably hot. I hope the person who invented the AC got a Nobel Prize.

I take back everything I said in the last post about the party outside our room in San Carlos. It was fantastic. More and photos when I get home.

from San Carlos

We made it through the Valley of the Shadow of Death ~ aka Sinaloa, where all the warnings are centered ~ and arrived safely in San Carlos and got a room at our favorite hotel. BUT, little did we know that there is a celebration of a First Communion to be held out on the seaside lawn. Mariaches, a big buffet dinner, huge bar whipping up all sorts of drinks in blenders for the adults, rows and rows of soda cans for the kiddies and, to top it off, a HUGE disco set-up that is about 25 yards from our bedroom and balcony. All of this for a 10-year old girl. Imagine what her quinceanaro will be like! Much less her wedding. Had we known this we would have moved down the road to another place. Any other place, in fact. But we're here now and I can only hope everyone will be wiped out ~ one way or another ~ by midnight.

Tomorrow it's off to the border at Nogales. If we get out of here just when it's light we'll make it there by around 11 AM with one stop for gas. It will be good to get back. This is a long, arduous drive with the added wariness that goes with having read too many State Department warnings. But Mr. C clutched the steering wheel and kept up the pace while I clutched my good-luck talisman travel necklaces, and so far so good. Next stop: Gila Bend, AZ.

the news from Tepic

Actually, there isn't any news. This was a very easy drive, except for the crazy traffic in Guadalajara. There is a distance of about 35 miles through some mountains that is a 2-lane road, a bit nervous-making with big double remolque trucks lumbering along at 30 MPH. And it you get stuck behind one it can be a complete drag. About half way along this route you come around a bend and there, glowing in the sun, is a stand of jacaranda trees about 5 miles long. Although they are a bit beyond their full bloom there are still plenty of blooms in that gorgeous purpl-y blue color. It never fails to stun me when I see such a color.

Up at 5 AM this morning, out of the door by 9 AM (half an hour late!), and we arrived here at 2:15 ~ although it was only 1:15 here. Tonight it's early supper ~ bnrought with us ~ and early to bed. Tomorrow is the long drive from Tepic to Topolobampok although it's mostly 4-lane. No more internet until Gila Bend. So no opera this week. It's Lulu by Alban Berg.

leaving behind

We spent yesterday finishing up the packing of the house. I have paid particular attention to things like the sound and smell of the ocean, the tinkling tune of the ice cream man who drives through town ~ he's playing the same tune as he did the first time we came down here 20 years ago ~ the message of the gaz truck as he trolls up and down the streets selling his gas canisters, the talera vendor who always slows in front of our house just in case. Fernando and Chuy came by to talk about what needs to be done over the summer months; not a whole lot, it turns out, except to pay the bills as they trickle in and to water the garden until the rains start. I've said "Good bye" to Jack, other year-rounders, Marie (she leaves tomorrow morning), to the vegetable man and the chicken man in the tianguis, to the Santorini water delivery man, the Indio beer delivery man, to Dago. Is there anyone I've forgotten? Hasta año proximo.

I will be internet challenged until we hit Gila Bend, AZ on Saturday. I may have a connection tomorrow in Tepic, but definitely nothing in Topolobampo or San Carlos. I'll fill you in on any adventures encountered along the way. To hear the State Department and the consulate in Hermasillo, there are numerous possibilities. I am praying for tedium.

It's been a very good season, with lots of lessons learned, domino games played, books read, friends visited, walks taken, beer drunk, shrimp consumed on Friday nights at Dago's. I look forward to more of the same in 7 months. Life is very good down here in the tropics, in this seedy little Mexican village by the seashore.

Bless This House

Yesterday was Dia de las Cruces, a festive holiday in our village. The main street was festooned with palm branches tied up with big paper flowers. There was a palm arch spanning the main road down by the railroad tracks, and houses displayed crosses of various kinds on front doors and windows. There was a parade reminiscent of the Palm Sunday parade held here.

This was the most beautiful cross of all, one loaded with significance. The workers on Jack's roof constructed this cross, decorated it with paper flowers and ribbons that flutter in the breeze, and installed it sometime on Sunday, presumably without his knowledge. (I don't think he knows it's there yet.) It is meant as a house blessing and should stay there for a year, rain or shine, to insure that only goodness and harmony reside there. These workers have not always had an easy time of it but their willingness to present such a lovely gift to the casa is truly heart warming. Either that or they figured this place needs all the blessings it can get!

sharing 11 boys with friends

Last night our delightful friends Bobbie and Philip hosted a dinner billed as "Pearl Moser's South African Curry Supper." This couple has a lovely home down in the colonia ~ airy, spacious with plenty of room to seat 14 guests (plus the silver, china and napery to go with it!). We gathered at 6:30 for drinks, then sat down to a delicious dinner featuring perfectly spiced beef curry with 11 condiment (boys) on a big Lazy Susan in the center of each table. The hostess had (wisely) separated couples; husbands and wives at different tables which made for lively, wide-ranging conversation. We met one couple who has just completed a quite fabulous house on the beach (he refers to it as their "cottage." Some cottage!), plus a charming chap who has moved into the house next door to that of the hosts'. What a very special end-of-season treat the evening was. Mr. C made a divine chocolate ice cream using the cinnamon-flavored hard chocolate used here for the yummy chocolate caliente made with rich milk and cream. It was quite a hit after the spicy curry. Put the fire right out.

More packing up today including stowing all the wonderful bara cookware I have collected and use faithfully. Tomorrow is the last visit to the tianguis for this season. Marie and I will go a bit later than usual and end up at the Jacaranda for bean tacos and beer to bid an official adios to our Monday routine. I am already girding for the initial sticker shock when I make my first trip to the US supermarket. It's going to hurt . . . a lot.