what's you New Year's Eve drink?

Me, I'm bedding down with a nice bottle of NyQuil® to feed the nasty cold I have developed. Started with a sore throat yesterday morning, progressed to lots of sneezing, nose-blowing, coughing,moaning and groaning. I'm hoping things will be better tomorrow. I haven't had a cold in several years so I should complain too much - or should I?

From us to you, Prospero Año, make some good resolutions, drive carefully if you're out and about. For you opera lovers/listeners, tomorrow's live-from-the-Met presentation is Pelléas et Mélissande by Claude Debussy. Another long one; 5 acts. Starts an hour earlier (12 PM EST). I hope I can make it all the way through.

Christmas Day in Bozeman

This is the first Christmas for Cait and Mike's dogs. They took them out yesterday morning for a romp in this beautiful setting. According to the weather map it was 10º!

We harnessed up the dogs and went for an early morning x-country ski adventure. We did not see another person the entire time. It was cold, crisp and very refreshing.

This morning we went to a lovely brunch party at our friends Bobbie and Philip's house. We stayed on to play a rousing round of Mexican Train Dominoes (the women and Jack [one guest's husband]) while Philip and Mr. C played chess. Then it was another couple of hours of idle chat, lots of laughter and good fellowship. B & P have put their wonderful big house on the market; they want to move back to Ajijic ~ but we are all hoping it doesn't sell for at least three years. Not very generous hearted, are we. But they are such fun we will miss them greatly.

Soon it will be time to go to the taco wagon in the jardin for tacos de lengue to bring home. There are a few holiday visitors in town, mostly day-trippers. The hotels are dark and empty. However, I have been told revelers will begin trickling in by Tuesday or Wednesday for the New Year's Eve parties. I can wait. Meanwhile, it's sunny, quiet and very, very pleasant.

on-time arrival

Unlike other grim stories of Christmas traffic problems and delayed or canceled flights, we had an on-time arrival at the crèche on our street early this morning. No snow storms, no angry and frustrated travelers. This morning dawned sunny and bright to greet the new baby. You will note, no doubt, that this "baby" is about the size of a 3 year-old. Ouch!


Last night's festive gathering was probably the best one yet! Delicious traditional (gringo) dinner ~ turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, salads, veggies. Pies and cakes for dessert. Thirty of us gathered pool-side for a lovely celebration. We made some new friends ~ a delightful couple from Washington state who has just bought a house down in the colonia (the one previously owned by the Dutch couple we were so fond of) ~ greeted old friends whom we had not seen since our arrival, and welcomed others who had only recently arrived. It was a fine evening.

Merry Christmas to All!

Christmas Eve update

If I didn't know better, by looking outside I'd think I was in Morro Bay or Pacifica or some other mid-winter fog belt. Overcast and drippy. I know it will burn off eventually, probably before noon. I forget that this happens here at this time of year. After all, it IS winter! But enough of the weather. Here are the past few days (very thrilling) events.

We got up in the middle of the night on Monday to see the gorgeous lunar eclipse. We went up to the third floor, lay down on the cement bench and watched the show unfold above us. It was a blessedly clear night ~ stars everywhere, the big mood gradually turning a coppery red. Last time these two dates ~ Winter Solstice and lunar eclipse ~ coincided, Shakespeare was a baby!

Here's the equipale furniture we ordered. Picked it up a week ago. Looks so nice in the house and it's a much better arrangement with a larger, 4-person table.


Chairs around the table are those that I ferried down from home. IKEA.

The chair was in pretty bad shape. The back had been torn badly; it just got dried out and split. So we took it to the shop and asked if it could be repaired. Here's the result.

They did such a fine job we're going to take three more to be revived.

On Wednesday evening the village children had their Posada parade through the streets. The whole gang was there; Mary and Joseph in costume, the donkey (played by a very placid large dog on a leash). They knocked on the door, asking if they could stay for the night. The accompanying chorus told them no, sorry, no room in this inn. Their remarkably off-key little voices filled the air. After a resounding, ¡Feliz Navidad! I made the usual donation for their post-Posada party and off they went to the next prospective inn.

Meanwhile, down at the end of our street an enterprising group has erected a creche scene. I watched them constructing the "stable" out of palm wood beams and palm fronds.


Off to one side is a cluster of tiny figurines that are not really part of the traditional creche. Instead, they depict scenes of Mexican life of old. The woman in front is making tortillas. Miniature sheep are scattered around. (Please note the presence of the swan. That's a new one for me.)


The figures appear every afternoon, late, are there until after dark, and then are taken in for safekeeping. The Baby Jesus will appear for the first time at midnight tonight. Then he'll be there through January 6, La Noche de los Reyes Magos. Then it will all be packed away for another year.

Tonight is the traditional Christmas Eve party at Luly and Ed's house. Mr. C is making a rum-soaked pumpkin pie, I'm doing the floral decorations and bringing wine and four bags of ice. I got off easy this year. There will be about 30 guests. It's always a fine party.

Then as if all these festivities weren't enough, tomorrow, Christmas Day, the Met is presenting a tribute to James Levine on his 40th anniversary as music director. The performance will be from the archives: "The Bartered Bride" by Bedrich Smetana. Teresa Stratas, Nicolai Gedda, Jon Vickers to do the singing thing. A splendid Christmas gift indeed.



From our casa to yours, wherever you are, we wish you a very Merry Christmas and a blessed and peace-filled New Year.

Sunday in Suchitlan

We had a guest here for two nights while his apartment at the casa was occupied by renters. As a "thank you" he took us to lunch at Los Portales, a wonderful restaurant situated in an old coffee plantation in Suchitlan up in the hills outside Colima.

The seating is either outside under the coffee trees

or in a big covered patio that looks out on the other tables.

Mr. C and I both ordered chiles rellinos picadillo; Marie and Al both had Birria mixta, a stew of shredded beef and pork that you spoon into a tortilla, ladle on some of the spicy sauce, roll up and enjoy!

The restaurant was filled with gorgeous displays of noche buena flowers in amazing colors, even some striped ones.

This little town is famous for its mask-carvers, and the restaurant has many on display throughout. All of them are for sale. They decorate the walls of the patio; every time we go back there are new ones to tempt me.



It was an altogether lovely day. Good food, good things to look at, good fellowship. Thanks, Al.

consider the talera

Mexico is not known for its fine breads. You get the traditional bollio, baked fresh two times a day, you get the Bimbo brand air bread, and you get taleras. These are made with the same dough that the bollios are made with but are handled and molded differently. They are more like a giant English muffin than a French roll. In this photo, the plate measures 7" in diameter, so you can see these are big!





And they are not easy to find. Most bakeries around here don't have them, or at least the ones they have aren't very good. The best ones come from a little vendor outside the indoor market in Manzanillo, but that's just to far to go to get one. However, a very charming gentleman who speaks a little bit of English drives his van (a new vehicle! Last year it was an old red truck. Things are looking up in the talera business) through town every evening about 7 o'clock with his loudspeaker advertising his baked goods. These include cookies and some breakfast things that resemble scones or soda bread. (This last item is so dry it takes every bit of moisture out of your mouth but they do very nicely with a big gulp of coffee.) We buy four taleras at a pop, spend 16 pesos (about $1.10) and they are absolutely delicious toasted and slathered with butter and jam. Plus they are brought fresh to our door. This morning I made a peanut butter/mayo/lettuce sandwich with one toasted. Brought me back to my beach days as a child in Newport Beach. Not a bad memory.

the twins go hunting

Sent by Caitlin this morning from snowy Montana:

Here is a great photo of "the boys" from this past weekend. Mike took them on their first pheasant hunt--mostly just to work on field commands. They did a great job, considering it was their first time. Two shots were fired at pheasants, and the dogs were not at all "gun shy", which was a big test. I love this photo of the dogs and Mike, who gives them their commands via hand gestures and whistles. Very fun to watch!