DATELINE: Paris (6)

It's quiet in the Marais on Saturday as it is a traditionally Jewish section of the city.  Everything shuts down at sunset on Friday, now about 6 o'clock.  Almost nothing is open for business until late in the afternoon today, if at all.  The Synagog next door held services, then a meal, then afternoon study so all was peaceful.  We went over to the old nabe because there is a wonderful butcher who sells cooked meat and, besides, Saturday is the big street market day at Maubert.  So instead of doing some research over here to find what we want we got on the Metro and went over there.  Remember what I said about the StairMaster?  It is 206 stairs ONE WAY between the St. Paul and Maubert Metro stations.  That includes both up and down!   There are escalators in two of the stations but we can never find them!  After all of that it's 25 stairs up to the apartment from the ground floor. I just call it good exercise and forget it.

We did find what we were looking for ~ a hunk of roast pork ~ and bought some veggies and some other treats and came home.  This afternoon I did the last load of laundry for this trip while Mr. C went on the "liquid" run at the local market.  We're set for the next couple of days.  We haven't gone to any restaurants since we've been back because of his cold and cough.  But perhaps before we leave on Thursday we'll get in one smart dining experience.

It was raining off and on today but tomorrow should have some sun.  If so it will be a visit to the Musée Nissim  over in the 8eme alongside the beautiful Parc Monceau.  Only one Metro stop; maybe 35 stairs?

DATELINE: Paris (5)

rue des Rosiers in the morning light

I have absolutely nothing to report for today.  I did not leave the confines of the apartment; I stayed in bed, read and dozed and coughed.  Mr. C went out foraging for something to eat and drink but otherwise he, too, sneezed and coughed.  Oh, did I mention that it was raining and 47º?  That had something to do with our burrowing in for the day.  Tomorrow, however, the sun is supposed to come out for part of the day and so we will be out and about.  We only have five days left and I don't want to convalesce any longer than necessary.

DATELINE: Paris (4)

More sun today so more wandering around outdoors.  First stop was Dehillerin, the sine qua non of cookware stores over at Les Halles.

This marvelous store covers three addresses.  Two levels crammed with the most wonderful cookware and kitchen gadgets imaginable.  Makes William Sonoma look like a 5-and-10¢ store!

Need copper?

Need strainers?

Down the street I discovered a market selling these beautiful scarves, grouped by colors.

I could have bought one of every color.    As I have said before everybody had a garden, no matter where they live.

Then on down the street was the Church of Saint Eustache.

Back home for an early lunch so I could go out and do some other shopping.  There is a huge department store, BHV (Bazar Hôtel de Ville) that's about 2 blocks from here.  Eight floors of everything you could possibly want/need, except food (you have to go to the food hall at the Bon Marché for that).  It has a bricolage (hardware) department that would make the Home Depot drool.  I had my list, got almost everything, came home determined to go back and look at all that great stuff again.  Mr. C is definitely NOT a shopper so I get to go by myself and take my time.  But let me say this:  the Parisians ~ and her visitors ~ are the shopping-ist people I've ever seen.  Swarms of them in every store and on the streets, carrying bags and packages from stores all over the city.  It's truly amazing.

We've definitely decided to cut the trip short by almost a week and will be heading back on Thursday, November 7.  So only 6 more days to see everything I haven't seen already!

As for Halloween in Paris, I saw one person in a costume on the Down escalator in the Les Halles Metro station as I was going Up, although in Paris, especially during Fashion Week, it's hard to say whether this is costume or couture.  Otherwise I don't think it's a big deal here.  I've seen no costumes in store windows or adverts for candy or treats.  Maybe this is one bad habit the French have not imported!

DATELINE: Paris (3)

A quick post because I am SICK and need to go to bed.  Mr. C generously shared his germs with me so I am now just as infected as he is.

Not to be cowed by illness, this morning we headed out to the Place des Voges and La Mule du Pape for lunch.  On our way we passed this lovely little oasis, the Square de Georges Cain.

We found the Place des Voges .  . . 

The colonnade at the Place des Voges.  Chanel lived in the apartments on this beautiful square.  So did Rudof Nureyev.

Lots of restos around the Place; they all have those outdoor heating things you can feel as you walk by.

Try as we might we couldn't find our little restaurant.  The last time we were there was 2005.  I think it has been turned into an art gallery; there are tons of them in this area.    We gave up in despair, returned home for an in-house lunch.  I checked Google  and the last resto review about it was indeed in 2005.  So we'll now start the great hunt for the favorite lunch spot around this area. After lunch I went out to explore the area while Mr. C stayed in and coughed.

The weather is holding so tomorrow may be a trip to the Tuilleries/L'Orangerie/Jeu de Paume.  We'll see how we feel in the morning.

DATELINE: Paris (2)

The sun was out almost all day, then some clouds, a bit of rain, and now it's dark and cold (47º).  We expect about the same tomorrow.

Here's the apartment.  It looks almost exactly like the one over in the Latin Quarter.  I think the owner got a deal on furnishings, fabrics and paint.

the living room

dining room with, again, mirrored wall for the illusion of space

bedroom, smaller than the other one

this kitchen is actually big enough for two people and has more cupboard space

tiny tub/shower and basin

toilet in tiny closet off living room.  Note raised platform; like sitting on a throne!

apartment is on 1st floor so only one 26-stair flight up!

This apartment is across the courtyard from ours.  I took this picture to show you the tiny garret window on top with its little garden in the sky  Note sunshine!

There is a "world famous" falafel shop on this street, L'As du Falafel (The Ace of Falafel) that usually has a line a block long at the take-out window.  But when we came back from our morning shopping trip there were only a few people there.  We bought two "sandwiches" of falafel in pita with all sorts of wonderful salad garnishes and hot sauce to bring home for lunch.

It was spicy, crunchy and very filling.  I think one would have been enough between the two of us.  I'm not sure how I feel about this dish but at least I can now say I've been to this place. It also serves shawarma, sandwiches made with meat shaved off a large rotating cone of layered beef or lamb.  I'll try that next time.

Back home, I finished "War and Remembrance" and now have to look for something equally as enthralling and majestic.  That's going to be difficult.  It also has to be enjoyable because I think I'm getting THE COLD and may have to be quarantined for a day or two.  Tomorrow will tell.

DATELINE: Lille to Paris

We are happily back in Paris after the recovery weekend in Lille.  Mr. C is still coughing and wheezing and blowing his nose but assures me he's feeling better.  We caught the 11:40 TGV to Gare du Nord ~ first class seats on the TGV are well worth the euros ~ stuffed our bags into a taxi and were at the front door by 1:30 PM on a grey and occasionally rainy afternoon.  The apartment is exactly as I remember it from our stay here in 2005.  The rue des Rosiers was jammed (as usual) with pedestrians so we got out of the taxi and walked the last couple of blocks.    We've been to the market for basics, picked up a couple of quiches for dinner and are ready to relax and take it easy for a day or so.  Then it will be back on the museum/shopping/exploring/dining routine again.  Photos of the apartment and environs tomorrow.

DATELINE: Lille (2)

Nothing much to report from here.  Walked over to the train station to buy tickets for ride to Paris tomorrow morning.  We'll get to Gare du Nord a bit after noon, taxi to the apartment in the Marais and then decide what to do in the next week or so.  We may go home early, may stay until mid-November as originally planned.  Mr. C spent most of today coughing, sneezing, blowing his nose, snoozing, drinking tea.  I spent most of the day finishing up "War and Remembrance" which is an absolutely wonderful book..

Next message, I think, from Paris.